Hey everyone! How’s it going this week? I’m trying to hard to keep working but it’s rather cold in my home and my fingers are pretty chilly. It’s a good thing I made a sweater this week, right?
Ok, I have an important question… do you wait to weave in your ends or do you get them as soon as you fasten off? I’m a wait for the end type of person and that tends to bite me in the butt… a lot. Oops. Take today’s pattern for instance, the Sherbet Sweater… there are a lot of color changes and I didn’t weave in the ends as I went. You should have seen me try to hype up myself to do it, it was like I was going to the dentist or something. I just wanted nothing to do with it. Heck, I’ll even admit that some of them haven’t been trimmed. If you can’t see it from the outside, I just left them dangling in places. Ha! Don’t follow my lead though, weave in your ends properly. Also check your gauge!
This week’s design is a sweater and I just wanted to make sure I say a few times, check your gauge. Check your gauge… check your gauge! I see people in forums, in comments on IG or FB or even on Ravelry talking about how their projects didn’t turnout the way the pattern said and most often it’s because they didn’t check their gauge. I check my gauge throughout the project. I’ve had shawls where my gauge changed mid project (probably due to muscle fatigue) so I had to adjust my hook. It keeps you from putting in HOURS or DAYS worth of work into something that doesn’t turn out wearable. With some designs it’s not a big deal if it turns out the wrong size (earrings for instance) but if you’re making a sweater that takes you forever to make and nearly 30 oz of yarn, you want to make sure it turns out right. Right? So there’s my little PSA about checking your gauge. Do it. It does take time and you know you want to jump into your project right away, but it’s better to know your design will turn out as close to what the designer got than 3 sizes off.
Alright. I really hope you like this week’s pattern. It’s my first foray into making a sweater for my blog. I got this yarn from AC Moore and I thought it’d be the best way to say thank you. I’ve included 3 sizes (the largest size doesn’t use 8 colors like the one in the photos). I can’t wait to see people work this pattern up. I do, genuinely, hope you like this pattern! If you have any questions or comments, please let me know <3
This post is linked to Hookin’ On Hump Day #186
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Materials
- US K (6.50 mm) crochet hook
- Bulky/ size #5 weight yarn
- Specifics listed below in the measurements
- I used Anti-Pilling Bamboo
- Yarn needle
- Stitch markers (optional)
Gauge
- 12 hdc x 9 rows = 4”
Terms/stitches used
- RS: right side
- Ch: chain
- St: stitch
- BLO: back loop only
- Slip st: slip stitch
- Sc: single crochet
- Sc2tog: single crochet 2 sts together
- Hdc: half double crochet
- Hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 sts together
- Hdcc: half double crochet cluster
Notes
- This pattern is worked in 3 parts: the Shoulders, the Body/Waistband, and the Sleeves/Cuffs. The Shoulders are worked row by row with a turn at the beginning of the row. The Body/Waistband and the Sleeves/Cuffs are worked in the round with a slip st into the first st.
- Hdcc (half double crochet cluster): (this stitch is worked into two stitches) yarn over, insert your hook into the first st, pull up a loop, yarn over, insert your hook into the next st, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all 5 loops on your hook, ch 1. This stitch is worked like a hdc2tog and a ch 1 that count together as one stitch. When working into this stitch, you will work into the hdctog and the ch 1 space.
- There are turns after each row on the Body and Sleeves but not the Cuffs and Waistband.
- The ch-2 at the beginning of the rows on the Shoulders does count as a stitch.
- The ch-2 at the beginning of the rounds of the Body and Sleeves does not count as a stitch. (This helps to obscure your seam)
- The ch-1 at the beginning of the rounds of the Cuffs and Waistband does not count as a stitch. The color changes are not denoted in the Cuffs and Waistband (except in the notes).
- You will turn after each round on the Body.
- Before the Waistband and the Cuffs, this pattern is reversible. Just make sure the Waistband and Cuffs section have the same side facing out.
- This design is a long tunic style sweater, you can adjust it as you’d like to make it shorter.
- You will need to know how to create a slipknot on your hook for this pattern.
- The size in the photos is the S/M in 8 colors. Color A red (Premier Yarns Anti-Pilling Bamboo in Pomegranate), color B is purple (Anti-Pilling Bamboo in Plum Sorbet), color C is blue (Anti-Pilling Bamboo in Blueberry Pie), color D is gray (Anti-Pilling Bamboo in Poppy Seed), color E light blue (Anti-Pilling Bamboo in Earl Grey), color F green (Anti-Pilling Bamboo in Kiwi), color G is tan (Anti-Pilling Bamboo in Mushroom), and color H is white (Anti-Pilling Bamboo in Mochi). The pattern is written for 7/8 colors but you can do as many or as few as you’d like. Size 2X/3X is only written for 7 colors to accommodate the repeats.
Finished product dimensions (measurements may vary by gauge and yarn used)
| S/M | L/XL | 2X/3X |
| Width: 18” – 18.5” | Width: 19” – 19.5” | Width: 20” – 20.5” |
| Height: 24” – 25” | Height: 24” – 25” | Height: 29” – 30” |
| Center back to wrist: 28” – 28.5” | Center back to wrist: 29” – 29.5” | Center back to wrist: 29” – 29.5” |
| Fits Chest: 32″ – 36″ | Fits Chest: 40″ – 44″ | Fits Chest: 48″ – 52″ |
| Yarn: 25.5 oz/ 954 yds | Yarn: 27 oz/ 1,010 yds | Yarn: 35 oz/ 1,310 yds |
Sherbert Sweater Crochet Pattern Instructions
Stitch count sizing as follows: S/M (L/XL, 2X/3X)
– Shoulders –
Row 1: A: Ch 67 (73, 79), hdc into the 3rd st from the hook (the skipped sts count as a hdc), hdc into the next 64, 70, 76 sts – 66 (72, 78) hdc
Row 2: A: Ch 2 (counts as hdc here and throughout the Shoulders), turn, hdc into the next 65 (71, 77) sts – 66 (72, 78) hdc
Row 3: A: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 64 (70, 76) sts, hdc into the last st – 32 (35, 38) hdcc, 2 hdc
Row 4: A: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 32 (35, 38) sts, hdc into the last st – 32 (35, 38) hdcc, 2 hdc
Rows 5 – 6: A: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 65 (71, 77) sts – 66 (72, 78) hdc
For 2X/3X only:
Rows 7 – 10: A: Repeat rows 3 – 6 once more
Row 7 (11) is the neck hole.
Row sizing: S/M & L/XL (2X/3X)
Row 7 (11): A: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 17 (20, 23) sts, ch 30, skip the next 30 sts, hdc into the next 18 (21, 24) sts – 36 (42, 48) hdc, 1 ch-30 space
Row 8 (12): A: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 65 (71, 77) sts (this includes both the hdc and 30 chcs from the previous row) – 66 (72, 78) hdc
Row 9 (13): A: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 65 (71, 77) sts – 66 (72, 78) hdc
Row 10 (14): A: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 64 (70, 76) sts, hdc into the last st – 32 (35, 38) hdcc, 2 hdc
Row 11 (15): A: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 32 (35, 38) sts, hdc into the last st – 32 (35, 38) hdcc, 2 hdc
Rows 12 – 13 (16 – 17): A: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 65 (71, 77) sts – 66 (72, 78) hdc
Next rows for 2X/3X only:
Rows 18 – 21: A: repeat rows 14 – 17 once more.
Fasten off color A, set aside.
Row sizing: S/M & L/XL (2X/3X)
Rows 14 – 15 (22 – 23): B: repeat rows 10 (14) – 11 (15) – 32 (35, 38) hdcc, 2 hdc
Rows 16 – 17 (24 – 25): B: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 65 (71, 77) sts – 66 (72, 78) hdc
Rows 18 – 19 (26 – 27): B: repeat rows 10 (14) – 11 (15) – 32 (35, 38) hdcc, 2 hdc
For S/M & L/XL only:
Fasten off color B, set aside.
Rows 20 – 21: C: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 65 (71, 77) sts – 66 (72, 78) hdc
Rows 22 – 23: C: repeat rows 10 – 11 – 32 (35) hdcc, 2 hdc
Fasten off color C.
Flip your whole piece around so that you’re working along the other side of row 1.
Repeat rows 14 – 23 with colors B and C. (This will give you the same look front and back)
Fasten off. Move onto Seaming the underarm.
For 2X/ 3X only:
Rows 28 – 31: B: repeat rows 24 – 27 once more
Fasten off color B, set aside.
Flip your whole piece around so that you’re working along the other side of row 1.
Repeat rows (22 – 31) with color B. (This will give you the same look front and back)
Fasten off. Move onto Seaming the underarm.
Seaming the underarm (all sizes)
Sizing as follows: S/M (L/XL, 2X/3X)
To create the beginning of the sleeves:
Fold your piece in half along the neck row; using color B or C (depending upon the size you’re working) seam (going towards the center) the first 6 (7, 9) sts on both rows 23 (23, 31) and (from the center out) also the last first 6 (7, 9) sts on both rows 23 (31). The unworked 54 (58, 60) sts on both rows 23 (23, 31) will be where you will work your Body section.
– Body –
Note:
- The ch-2 in this section does not count as a stitch (to help eliminate gaps in the seam)
- There are turns at the beginning of each row. This helps to match the rows texture of the shoulders.
Begin by marking the first st to the left (or the right if you’re left handed) of your seam on the unworked stitches of row 23 (31) (the armpit area).
For S/M (L/XL):
Rnd 1: C: Create a slipknot on your hook and hdc in the st you marked, hdc into the next 107 (115) sts, slip st into the first st – 108 (116) hdc
(RS) Rnd 2: C: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 108 (116) sts, slip st into the first st – 108 (116) hdc
Fasten off color C, set aside.
Rnd 3: D: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 108 (116) sts, slip st into the first st- 54 (58) hdcc
Rnd 4: D: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 54 (58) sts, slip st into the first st- 54 (58) hdcc
Rnds 5 – 6: D: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 108 (116) sts, slip st into the first st – 108 (116) hdc
Rnds 7 – 8: D: repeat rows 3 – 4, once
Fasten off color D.
Rnds 9 – 10: E: repeat rows 5 – 6, once
Rnds 11 – 14: E: repeat rows 3 – 6
Fasten off color E.
Rnds 15 – 16: F: repeat rows 3 – 4, once
Rnds 17 – 18: F: repeat rows 5 – 6, once
Rnds 19 – 20: F: repeat rows 3 – 4, once
Fasten off color F.
Rnds 21 – 22: G: repeat rows 5 – 6 once
Rnds 23 – 26: G: repeat rows 3 – 6, once
Fasten off color G.
Rnds 27 – 28: H: repeat rows 3 – 4, once
Rnds 29 – 30: H: repeat rows 5 – 6, once
Rnds 31 – 32: H: repeat rows 3 – 4, once
Do not fasten off, move onto the Waistband.
For 2X/3X:
Rnd 1: C: Create a slipknot on your hook and hdc in the st you marked, hdc into the next 119 sts, slip st into the first st – 120 hdc
(RS) Rnd 2: C: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 120 sts, slip st into the first st – 120 hdc
Rnd 3: C: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 120 sts, slip st into the first st- 60 hdcc
Rnd 4: C: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 60 sts, slip st into the first st- 60 hdcc
Rnds 5 – 6: C: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 120 sts, slip st into the first st – 120 hdc
Rnd 7: C: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 120 sts, slip st into the first st- 60 hdcc
Rnd 8: C: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 60 sts, slip st into the first st- 60 hdcc
Fasten off color C, set aside.
Rnds 9 – 10: D: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 120 sts, slip st into the first st – 120 hdc
Rnds 11 – 14: D: repeat rows 7 – 10, once
Rnds 15 – 16: D: repeat rows 7 – 8, once
Fasten off color D.
Rnds 17 – 18: E: repeat rows 9 – 10, once
Rnds 19 – 22: E: repeat rows 7 – 10, once
Rnds 23 – 24: E: repeat rows 7 – 8, once
Fasten off color E.
Rnds 25 – 26: F: repeat rows 9 – 10, once
Rnds 27 – 30: F: repeat rows 7 – 10, once
Rnds 31 – 32: F: repeat rows 7 – 8, once
Fasten off color F.
Rnds 33 – 34: G: repeat rows 9 – 10, once
Rnds 35 – 38: G: repeat rows 7 – 10, once
Rnds 39 – 40: G: repeat rows 7 – 8, once
Do not fasten off, move onto the Waistband.
– Waistband –
Note:
- The Waistband is supposed to be long, you can make it as long or as short as you’d like, changing colors every 2 rows.
- The ch-1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.
- Do not turn after every row (unless you want it to look different from the example).
- To get a slightly tighter fit, go down a hook size (or more, if you’d like) in this section.
- Make sure the right side is facing out for this section.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc into the same st as join and into the next 107 (115, 119) sts, slip st into the first st – 108 (116, 120) sc
Rnds 2 – 11: Ch 1, sc into the BLO of the same st as join and into the BLO of the next 107 (115, 119) sts, slip st into the first st – 108 (116, 120) sc
Fasten off, weave in your ends.
– Sleeves –
Note:
- The ch-2 in this section does not count as a stitch (to help eliminate gaps in the seam)
- There are turns at the beginning of each row. This helps to match the rows texture of the shoulders.
Begin by marking the first st to the left (or the right if you’re left handed) of your seam (on the row ends) you created to make the beginning of your sleeves (the armpit area).
For S/M & L/XL:
(RS) Rnd 1: A: Create a slipknot on your hook, hdc into the st you marked, *hdc twice into the next st, hdc into the next st,* repeat from * to * 16 more times, slip st into the first st – 49 hdc
Rnd 2: A: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog the first 2 sts, hdc into the next 47 sts, slip st into the first st – 48 hdc
Rnd 3: A: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 48 sts, slip st into the first st- 24 hdcc
Fasten off color A.
Rnd 4: B: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog the first 2 sts, hdc into the next 46 sts, slip st into the first st – 47 hdc
Rnd 5: B: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog the first 2 sts, hdc into the next 45 sts, slip st into the first st – 46 hdc
Rnd 6: B: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 46 sts, slip st into the first st- 23 hdcc
Fasten off color B.
Rnd 7: C: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog the first 2 sts, hdc into the next 44 sts, slip st into the first st – 45 hdc
Rnd 8: C: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog the first 2 sts, hdc into the next 43 sts, slip st into the first st – 44 hdc
Rnd 9: C: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 44 sts, slip st into the first st- 22 hdcc
Fasten off color C.
Rnds 10 – 11: D: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 44 sts, slip st into the first st – 44 hdc
Rnd 12: D: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 44 sts, slip st into the first st- 22 hdcc
Fasten off color D.
Rnds 13 – 14: E: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 44 sts, slip st into the first st – 44 hdc
Rnd 15: E: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 44 sts, slip st into the first st- 22 hdcc
Fasten off color E.
Rnds 16 – 17: F: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 44 sts, slip st into the first st – 44 hdc
Rnd 18: F: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 44 sts, slip st into the first st- 22 hdcc
Fasten of color F.
Rnds 19 – 20: G: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 44 sts, slip st into the first st – 44 hdc
Rnd 21: G: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 44 sts, slip st into the first st- 22 hdcc
Fasten off color G.
Rnds 22 – 23: H: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 44 sts, slip st into the first st – 44 hdc
Rnd 24: H: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 44 sts, slip st into the first st- 22 hdcc
Do not fasten off color H, move onto the Cuff.
For 2X/3X:
(RS) Rnd 1: A: Create a slipknot on your hook, hdc into the st you marked, *hdc twice into the next st, hdc into the next st,* repeat from * to * 29 more times, slip st into the first st – 61 hdc
Rnd 2: A: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog the first 2 sts, hdc into the next 59 sts, slip st into the first st – 60 hdc
Rnd 3: A: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 60 sts, slip st into the first st- 30 hdcc
Rnd 4: A: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 30 sts, slip st into the first st- 30 hdcc
Fasten off color A.
Rnd 5: B: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog the first 2 sts, hdc into the next 58 sts, slip st into the first st – 59 hdc
Rnd 6: B: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog the first 2 sts, hdc into the next 57 sts, slip st into the first st – 58 hdc
Rnd 7: B: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 58 sts, slip st into the first st- 29 hdcc
Rnd 8: B: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 29 sts, slip st into the first st- 29 hdcc
Fasten off color B.
Rnd 9: C: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog the first 2 sts, hdc into the next 56 sts, slip st into the first st – 57 hdc
Rnd 10: C: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog the first 2 sts, hdc into the next 55 sts, slip st into the first st – 56 hdc
Rnd 11: C: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 56 sts, slip st into the first st- 28 hdcc
Rnd 12: C: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 28 sts, slip st into the first st- 28 hdcc
Fasten off color C.
Rnds 13 – 14: D: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 56 sts, slip st into the first st – 56 hdc
Rnd 15: D: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 56 sts, slip st into the first st- 28 hdcc
Rnd 16: D: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 28 sts, slip st into the first st- 28 hdcc
Fasten off color D.
Rnds 17 – 18: E: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 56 sts, slip st into the first st – 56 hdc
Rnd 19: E: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 56 sts, slip st into the first st- 28 hdcc
Rnd 20: E: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 28 sts, slip st into the first st- 28 hdcc
Fasten off color E.
Rnds 21 – 22: F: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 56 sts, slip st into the first st – 56 hdc
Rnd 23: F: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 56 sts, slip st into the first st- 28 hdcc
Rnd 24: F: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 28 sts, slip st into the first st- 28 hdcc
Fasten of color F.
Rnds 25 – 26: G: Ch 2, turn, hdc into the next 56 sts, slip st into the first st – 56 hdc
Rnd 27: G: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 56 sts, slip st into the first st- 28 hdcc
Rnd 28: G: Ch 2, turn, hdcc into the next 28 sts, slip st into the first st- 28 hdcc
Do not fasten off color G, move onto the Cuff.
– Cuff –
Note:
- The Cuff is supposed to be long, you can make it as long or as short as you’d like, changing colors every 3 rows.
- The ch-1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.
- Do not turn after every row (unless you want it to look different from the example).
- To get a slightly tighter fit, go down a hook size (or more, if you’d like) in this section.
- Make sure the right side is facing out for this section.
Rnds 1 – 6: Ch 1, into the same st as join and into the next 43 (55) sts, slip st into the first st – 44 (56) sc
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc2tog the first 2 sts, sc into the next 42 (54) sts, slip st into the first st – 43 (55) sc
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc into the same st as join and into the next 42 (54) sts, slip st into the first st – 43 (55) sc
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc2tog the first 2 sts, sc into the next 41 (53) sts, slip st into the first st – 42 (54) sc
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc into the same st as join and into the next 41 (53) sts, slip st into the first st – 42 (54) sc
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc2tog the first 2 sts, sc into the next 40 (52) sts, slip st into the first st – 41 (53) sc
Rnd 12: Ch 1, sc into the same st as join and into the next 40 (52) sts, slip st into the first st – 41 (53) sc
Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc2tog the first 2 sts, sc into the next 39 (51) sts, slip st into the first st – 40 (52) sc
Rnd 14: Ch 1, sc into the same st as join and into the next 39 (51) sts, slip st into the first st – 40 (52) sc
Rnd 15: Ch 1, sc2tog the first 2 sts, sc into the next 38 (50) sts, slip st into the first st – 39 (51) sc
Rnd 16: Ch 1, sc into the same st as join and into the next 38 (50) sts, slip st into the first st – 39 (51) sc
Rnd 17: Ch 1, sc2tog the first 2 sts, sc into the next 37 (49) sts, slip st into the first st – 38 (50) sc
Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc into the same st as join and into the next 37 (49) sts, slip st into the first st – 38 (50) sc
Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc2tog the first 2 sts, sc into the next 36 (48) sts, slip st into the first st – 37 (49) sc
Rnds 20 – 21: Ch 1, sc into the same st as join and into the next 36 (48) sts, slip st into the first st – 37 (49) sc
Fasten off, weave in all your ends.
Tada! There it is. I really , really hope you do like this pattern.
See ya next week <3
Nicole
Sunday 5th of March 2023
Would you be able to post the measurements for the sizes? I would like to make thus using worsted wt yarn. Thanks
Carmen
Monday 26th of September 2022
What do you think about using Lion Brand Hue+Me for this? I did a gauge swatch and I'd need to use a J hook to meet gauge. But I worry that the sweater will end up kind of stiff and not lay nicely when it's worn. Is there anything I can do about this? Will blocking help? I don't have a lot of choices around me for a size 5 bulky yarn and Hue+Me almost seems close to a size 6 yarn. But I love the colors and have been hoping to find something to make with it. Thank you!
Amy Lane
Tuesday 19th of April 2022
This is a divine pattern--thank you. I have found that when I have fifty-dozen and three ends to weave in at the end, it helps if I think about them as a "last pet goodbye" to the project. Especially if the project is a gift--I commit to one or two days in which my yarning time is spent weaving in the ends, and remind myself that I did a good job and this project turned out nicely and the recipient will be pleased. (I once had to crochet two Twisted Kraken hats in a week for Christmas presents--this approach got me through weaving in the ends of fifty-dozen and three tentacles with little suckers on them, as well.)
Harper
Friday 17th of January 2020
Matching hair and sweater - how cool is that? Love both! H xxx
Liz
Friday 10th of January 2020
Looove this sweater! I just ordered a bunch of Paintbox DK in "sunset colors", (my description, not theirs), I am eagerly waiting for the mail lady to arrive with it this morning. I am planning on using it to make a freeform shawl that I am going to also incorporate leather pieces into so I should have more than enough left over to make this. In answer to your weaving in ends question, I wait until the end because I like to weave through the fibres so they stay put. I find if you just crochet over them they slip out. Thank you so much for the free pattern, it's gorgeous! I love this type of neckline.