Anyway… back to the new Erin Cocoon Shrug pattern. There are four sizes in this pattern so, hopefully, you can find a your size pretty easily, especially it’s supposed to be extra big and roomy. And the repeat is pretty simple. If you want to make it bigger you can make it larger by adding rows and add more rows to the Sleeves or Lapel to make it personalized. It’s fully up to you and what you like.

And I know that everything is a lot right now. I have had a lot going on in my brain lately and so I’m trying to keep myself busy. I hope you take care the best way you can and for a little bit, my patterns help you. See you in May friends!

Please note: I was provided the yarn and hook I used for this pattern by Furls for the purposes of making this design, with compensation. I wasn’t provided the yarn or hook with specific expectations but I did love using it and will definitely use it again.

If you appreciate my weekly patterns I hope you’d consider purchasing an ad-free pdf of this pattern in my Ravelry shop.

Thank you to all my patrons on Patreon!

Materials

• US I (5.50 mm) crochet hook
  • I used this Furls Streamline for this
• Size #4/ worsted/ medium weight yarn
  • Specifics in the Finished Product Dimensions
  • I used Whims Merino for this (affiliate link)
• Notions: Yarn needle, scissors, tape measure

Gauge

• 13 hdc x 11 rows = 4”
• In pattern, 3 repeats across (20 sts) = 4.5”
• In pattern, 8 rows = 4”

Terms/ Stitches used

• RS: right side
• St: stitch
• Ch: chain
• Join
• Sc: single crochet
• Hdc: half double crochet
• Dc: double crochet

Notes

• This pattern is worked in 3 sections: the Body, the Sleeves, and the Lapel. The Body is worked in rows, back and forth with a turn at the beginning of the row. Once the Body is done, then you seam up the row ends to create the Sleeve holes. Then you work around the Sleeve holes to create the sleeves. Then you work around the first and last rows of the Body to create the Lapel.
• The ch-3 at the beginning of some rows does count as a stitch.
• The ch-1 at the beginning of some rows does not count as a stitch.The example in the photos is the XS/SM in Furls Yarn Whims Merino in Mustard.

Body
Sizing as follows: XS/SM (MD/LG, 1X/2X, 3X – 5X)

Row 1: Ch 170 (191, 219, 233), sc into the second ch from the hook, *ch 3, skip the next 2 sts, sc into the next st, ch 3, skip the next 3 sts, sc into the next st,* repeat from * to * 23 (26, 30, 32) more times – 49, (55, 63, 67) sc, 48 (54, 62, 66) ch-3 spaces
(RS) Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), turn, dc 4 times into the next ch-3 space, ch 1, skip the next sc, dc into the next ch-3 space, ch 1, skip the next sc, *dc 4 times into the next ch-3 space, ch 1, skip the next sc, dc into the next ch-3 space, ch 1,* repeat from * to * 23 (26, 30, 32) more times, dc into the last sc – 122 (132, 157, 167) dc, 48 (54, 62, 66) ch-1 spaces
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc into the first st, ch 3, skip the next [ch 1, dc], sc into the next ch-1 space, *ch 3, skip the next 4 dc, sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 3, skip the next dc, sc into the next ch-1 space,* repeat from * to * 22 (25, 29, 31) more times, ch 3, skip the next 4 dc, sc into the last dc – 49, (55, 63, 67) sc, 48 (54, 62, 66) ch-3 spaces
Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as a dc plus a ch 1, here and throughout), turn, dc into the next ch-3 space, ch 1, skip the next sc, dc 4 times into the next ch-3 space, *ch 1, skip the next sc, dc into the next ch-3 space, ch 1, skip the next sc, dc 4 times into the next ch-3 space,* repeat from * to * 22 (25, 29, 31) more times, dc into the last sc – 122 (132, 157, 167) dc, 48 (54, 62, 66) ch-1 spacesRow 5: Ch 1, turn, sc into the first st, *ch 3, skip the next 4 dc, sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 3, skip the next dc, sc into the next ch-1 space,* repeat from * to *  22 (25, 29, 31) more times, ch 3, skip the next 4 dc, sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 3, skip the next dc, sc into the last st – 49, (55, 63, 67) sc, 48 (54, 62, 66) ch-3 spaces
Rows 6 – 69 (77, 85, 93): repeat rows 2- 5, 16 (18, 20, 22) times
Fasten off, weave in your ends.

Creating the Sleeve Holes
To create the sleeves, you will fold the Body piece in half and seam up the row ends toward the fold. The unworked row ends will be your arm holes.
Starting from the Row 1/69 (77, 85, 93) side, weave 19 (23, 23, 27) rows together. You will have 31 (31, 39, 39) rows unworked for the sleeve hole. Repeat the seaming on the other side.

Sleeves
With the RS facing you, create a slipknot on your hook and start in the next dc row end next to the seam you created to make the Sleeve Holes, hdc twice in the dc row end, *hdc once in the next sc row end, hdc twice in the next dc row end,* repeat from* to * 14 (14, 18, 18) more times, join – 47 (47, 59, 59) hdc
Rnd 2 – 4: Ch 1, turn, hdc into the next 47 (47, 59, 59) sts, join – 47 (47, 59, 59) hdcRnd 5: Ch 1, turn, sc into the next 47 (47, 59, 59) sts, join – 47 (47, 59, 59) sc
Fasten off, weave in your ends. Repeat Sleeve instructions on the other side.

Lapel
With the RS facing you, create a slipknot on your hook and start in the first st to the left of one of your Sleeve seams
Rnd 1: hdc into the first st, *hdc twice into the next ch-3 space, hdc into the next sc,* repeat from * to * 47 (53, 61, 65) more times, move to the other side of the original ch row, hdc into the first st, *hdc twice into the next ch space, hdc into the next sc,* repeat from * to * 47 (53, 61, 65) more times, join – 290 (326, 374, 398) hdc
Rnds 2 – 5: Ch 1, turn, hdc into the next  290 (326, 374, 398) sts, join –  290 (326, 374, 398)
Fasten off, weave in your ends.