The Free Neapolitan Blanket Crochet Pattern

Level

Intermediate (must know c2c)

Materials

• US I (5.50 mm) crochet hook
  • I used this hook
• Size #4 worsted weight yarn
  • 3 colors A: .37 oz/ 20 yds (per square)
  • B: .27 oz/ 14.6 yds (per square)
  • C: .18 oz/ 9.7 yds (per square)
  • Whole blanket – A: 17.5 oz/ 925 yds , B: 14 oz/ 740 yds, and C: 14 oz/ 740 yds.
  • I used Lion Brand Yarn Basic Stitch Anti-Pillin
• Notions: scissors, measuring tape, yarn needle

Notes

• As is industry standard, this pattern is just a free graph and not written instructions but you can purchase the pattern for free in my Ravelry shop.
• This is a C2C pattern worked from the bottom right corner to the top left corner.
• This pattern is a square, so you don’t have to worry about increasing on one side and decreasing on the other.
• Each C2C block consists of 3 double crochets and a ch-3. The directions will only tell you what color (ie: Color A, Color B, etc…) and the number tells you how many squares to make.
• Check out the tutorial by Meghan Makes Do on how to do C2C designs if you’re unfamiliar with this technique.
• You will need to know how to change colors in a C2C for this pattern.
• Rows 1 – 10 you will be increasing and rows 11 – 19 you will be decreasing.
• The odd-numbered rows are worked down and the even-numbered rows are worked up. The odd-numbered rows are the Right Side.
• You can fasten off while changing colors B and C or carry them along the back to limit ends.
• In the photos: per square – color A is pink (Lion Brand Yarn Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling in Prism .37 oz/ 20 yds), color B is white (Lion Brand Yarn Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling in White .27 oz/ 14.6 yds) and color C is gray (Lion Brand Yarn Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling in Charcoal Heather .18 oz/ 9.7 yds). Whole blanket – A: 17.5 oz/ 925 yds , B: 14 oz/ 740 yds, and C: 14 oz/ 740 yds.

Approx finished product dimensions (measurements may vary by gauge and yarn used)

Seaming

Need seaming help? Check out this post on my blog.
For the first square you will create a border that subsequent squares are joined to: with the RS facing you, create a slipknot on your hook (this will make your first sc a standing st, if you’d rather pull up a loop and ch 1 to create your sc you can), sc into the first st on the corner (this can be a ch-3 space or a dc), [ch 3 and skip the next block,*sc into the space between the blocks, ch 3 and skip the next block,* repeat from * to * across until you get to the last block, sc into the last st of the block, ch 3, sc into the same st as the last sc,] repeat from [ to ] twice more, ch 3 and skip the next block, *sc into the space between the block, ch 3 and skip the next block,* repeat from * to * across until you get to the last block, sc into the last st of the block, ch 3 and slip st into the first st. Fasten off, weave in your ends and block your square if desired.

For the 2nd afghan square and on: with the RS facing you line up the new square with the square or squares you want to join it to. Repeat the instructions for the first square until you get to the edge or edges where you want to join your squares.
Starting at the corner: sc into the last st of the block, ch 1, slip st into the corner ch-3 of the square you’re joining to, ch 1, sc into the same st as the last sc, *ch 1, slip st into the next ch-3 of the square you’re joining to, ch 1, skip the next block, sc into the space between the blocks,* repeat from * to * the rest of the way down the side. If you’re joining multiple squares, repeat the corner and side instructions until you get back to your first st, join with a slip st.
Fasten off, weave in your ends and block your square if desired.